This routine takes about 10 minutes and catches most expensive mistakes. Do it for every car on your shortlist, before you place a bid.

Step 1: Read the listing properly

  • Write-off category. Copart and IAA show it on the lot. Cat N and Cat S cars can go back on the road once repaired. Cat A and Cat B can't, ever. See Cat S and Cat N explained.
  • Keys and V5C. "No keys" means a locksmith or dealer bill. A missing log book means applying to the DVLA for one before you can sell the car smoothly.
  • Start and drive status. "Runs and drives" usually only means it moved under its own power on the day. It isn't a promise that it's roadworthy.
  • Every photo. Look for deployed airbags, warning lights on the dash, uneven panel gaps, water lines that suggest flood damage, and missing parts such as catalytic converters, wheels or headlights.

Step 2: Run the free government checks

Our free MOT history check does most of this in one place. You can also go straight to the official services:

The free checks can't tell you whether there's outstanding finance on the car, whether it's recorded as stolen, or its insurance write-off history. That information sits with private databases, not the DVSA or DVLA.

Step 3: Decide if a paid history check is worth it

For a salvage car you're serious about, usually yes. A paid check costs roughly £10 to £20 and looks for:

  • Outstanding finance. A car with finance owing can belong to the finance company, not the seller.
  • Stolen markers on the police national database.
  • Previous write-offs. A car sold as Cat N might have an earlier Cat S on record, which changes its value.
  • Plate and colour changes, and mileage records from other sources, which help spot clocking and cloning.

Auction houses vet their stock, but a history check is still your own protection, and buyers will ask to see one when you sell. Keep the report and mention it in your advert.

Step 4: Know the Cat S and Cat N paperwork

  • Since 26 October 2015 there has been no Vehicle Identity Check. A repaired Cat S or Cat N car doesn't need a government inspection to go back on the road. It does need to be roadworthy, with a valid MOT if it's three or more years old.
  • The DVLA records the write-off category on the V5C. For a Cat S car kept by its owner, the full log book goes to the insurer and the keeper applies for a free duplicate on form V62.
  • Cat S and Cat N have been used since 1 October 2017, under the insurance industry's code of practice for salvage. Older cars may show Cat C or Cat D instead.
  • Check that the identification number on the car (at the base of the windscreen, on a door pillar or on the floor) matches the V5C and the listing.

Step 5: Check you can insure it

Get an insurance quote for the exact car before you bid, and tell the insurer about the write-off category. If you're asked and don't disclose it, a claim could be refused or the policy cancelled. Some insurers charge more for Cat S and Cat N cars and a few won't cover them. That is part of why categorised cars sell for less.

Step 6: Price the repair and the resale, then set a max bid

  • Price the parts from the photos. Headlights, sensors, airbags and radiators add up fast.
  • Use real sold prices for the same model and category, not asking prices for clean cars.
  • Put it all into the salvage car profit calculator and don't go a pound over the max bid it gives you.

Quick checklist

  • Category, keys, V5C and start/drive status read
  • All photos checked for airbags, warning lights, flood damage and missing parts
  • MOT history and mileage checked
  • DVLA details match the listing
  • Recalls and LEZ checked
  • Paid history check run (finance, stolen, write-off history)
  • Insurance quote obtained
  • Max bid set in the calculator

Sources: GOV.UK write-off guidance, the DVLA notice ending the Vehicle Identity Check, the ABI salvage code of practice, DVSA services and mygov.scot LEZ guidance, checked 28 October 2026. This is general guidance, not legal or financial advice.